It’s not the cold war, but cold cash, that counts.
Today’s Moscow is a very confident, prosperous and vibrant city. The confidence may be the result of having an estimated 40 billionaires, strong oil prices and a strong ruble. If you are traveling to Moscow, it is recommended that you have a working knowledge of the Cyrillic alphabet, which is very phonetic. If you can pronounce the letters, you will be able to read and understand many modern Russian words. Pronouncing the Cyrillic letters that spell “telephone” in Russian, for instance, sounds like “telephone” in English. Don’t despair if that’s beyond you. “Nearly everyone you meet in Moscow has at least some rudimentary knowledge of English, which helps tremendously,” advises Mark Strouthes, director of intelligence management at iJet Risk Systems.
“Moscow is definitely a city of extreme contrasts,” Strouthes continues. “Depending on the time of year you go, parts of the city can be alternately breathtaking in their beauty or oppressively dull. Many times you will be utterly charmed by the people you meet, and other times the beggars, pickpockets, police and gypsies will exhaust you. You will find that central Moscow is similar to New York in that you can now find virtually anything (for a price) and the city never sleeps.”
The generation gap in Russia can seem very wide. “Stereotypes aside, many older Russians (that is, those who remember the Soviet Union) tend to be cynical, uncertain and generally less industrious, but exhibit tremendous hospitality and genuine affection once you get past initial suspicions,” says Strouthes. “Younger Russians, especially the new business class, are quite a bit more industrious, eager and very nationalistic; one could say that they are more European in their general demeanor as well. Younger Russians are much more connected and business-savvy than their older counterparts.”
Nonetheless, making appointments should be done at least a week ahead by e-mail and re-confirmed by telephone. For an older, more conservative firm, a letter may be more appropriate for setting up a first time meeting. The plush offices and the lifestyles of the typical corporate employee in Moscow are often indistinguishable from any Western European city, although the average salary for the Muscovite is a bit lower.
Since the 1998 Russian financial crisis, various business sectors in Moscow have shown exponential rates of growth. But even with the many new business centers and office buildings that have been built in recent years, Moscow still experiences shortages in office space. As a result, many former industrial and research facilities are being renovated to be made suitable for office use. Moscow is now a real estate boomtown and attracts investment banks such as Merrill Lynch and Goldman Sachs to compete with Russian firms Renaissance Capital, Troika Dialog and Alfa Bank, the largest private commercial bank in Russia.
In 2008, Moscow was named the world’s most expensive city for expatriate employees. “Moscow is one of the world’s most expensive places to live — there is no getting around that,” Strouthes says. “Travelers in town for business need to plan extensively as a result, in order to minimize expenses. Unless you know Russian or are good friends with a local who is willing to show you the ins and outs, you will pay astronomical prices for just about everything. That said, keep in mind that credit card fraud is rampant, and ATMs have a US$100 limit per 24-hour period — even from different banks. This is ostensibly to protect people from being mugged and forced to empty their checking accounts, but also helps authorities keep track of transactions for tax purposes.”
Communications are still monitored, Strouthes warns. “In this regard, travelers should not assume that the Cold War is over. Always assume that someone is listening if you are discussing sensitive business issues. This policy extends beyond casual conversations in public places to mobile phone conversations, hotel landline phones, and even — especially — Wi-Fi networks in your hotel. Assume that the hotel has a link to your computer — transfer only encrypted files on a protected VPN and change all your passwords as soon as you return home.”
On the whole, Moscow is a relatively secure city. The recent Metro bombings notwithstanding, security incidents are few and far between. Security on the Moscow Metro is actually very tight and it is by far the best way to get around the city — fast, convenient, clean and inexpensive.
The biggest concern is in the number of petty criminals. Pickpockets, beggars and thieves are common.
“Russian society can best be described as xenophobic,” says Strouthes. “People who look different from the average Russian could find themselves targeted by skinheads, who oftentimes operate in groups in Metro stations. There are numerous cases of blacks or Asians being assaulted in Moscow. In the wake of the recent bombings, those who could be mistaken for Chechens or other Caucasian ethnic groups are especially vulnerable.”
Other tips: The business traveler should stay in familiar hotels such as Marriott, Hyatt, Sheraton, Crowne Plaza, etc. As for restaurants, they come and go so quickly; it is best to ask for advice. Travel to and from the airport can be problematic. A business traveler should either resign him/herself to spending a great deal of time sitting in traffic in a taxi or hotel shuttle (the prices start at US$100 and go up from there), or ask for information on the trains.
TIME — Moscow time is GMT+3. Daylight savings begins the last Sunday in March and ends the last Sunday in October.
ENTRY/EXIT — A US citizen who does not comply with Russia’s complicated visa laws can be subject to arrest, fines and/or deportation but anyone with an expired visa will not be allowed to leave the country until a new visa is approved. That can take up to 20 days.
MEDICAL ADVISORIES — None currently.
TANSIT VISAS — Travelers intending to transit through Russia to a third country — even if only changing planes — must have a Russian transit visa issued by a Russian Embassy or Consulate. A US citizen without a transit visa may not be allowed to continue with his or her travel.
CUSTOMS — GPS equipment must be declared and cannot be used for any activity that might compromise Russian security. In early 2009, Russian officials began to enforce a law that requires passengers to personally escort their lost luggage, when it arrives, through Russian customs. Under a strict interpretation of this law, airlines may not deliver a lost bag to the traveler’s final destination. Not all airlines will reimburse travelers’ expenses for retrieving lost luggage.
CRIME — Contact the local police and the nearest US embassy or consulate. Victims of credit card or ATM card theft should report the theft to the credit card company or issuing bank without delay. Many scams and warnings are available at http://travel.state.gov.
CURRENCY — The Russian ruble is the only legal tender. It is illegal to pay for goods and services in US dollars except at authorized retail establishments. US bills that are worn or marked in any way are often not accepted at banks and exchange offices.
TAXIS — For security purposes, it is recommended to use an official taxi, recognizable by the checkerboard logo on the side or the small green light on the windscreen. They don’t use their meters, but the cost is about the same as the gypsy cabs.
BUSINESS HOURS — Most businesses and banks are open 10am to 6pm, Mon-Fri. Some banks are open 9am to 2pm on Sat. Shops are open 10am-8pm daily; some close on Sunday,but most supermarkets are open 24/7. Restaurants are open from noon until midnight.